Qeybta:Sheekada Saameynta11 min akhris
Kobcinta Nidaam Cunno Cadaal ah oo Adag ee Midwest
Xididdada Adkeysiga: Xoojinta Beeralayda BIPOC iyo Dhisida Hantida Guud
"Beeruhu waxay saameyn noocaas ah ku yeesheen, kaliya maahan nafteyda, muhiimada anshaxa shaqada, laakiin sidoo kale sida tani dhab ahaantii u tahay isku xirka bulshada. Cuntadu waa isku xidhka bulshada.”
- Janssen Hang, Ururka Beeralayda Maraykanka ee Hmong
Bilaha xagaaga ee quruxda badan, ayaa Ururka Beeraleyda Mareykanka ee Hmong (HAFA) beer ku taal miyiga Degmada Dakota, Minnesota waa deegaan firfircoon oo firfircoon. Cagaar dhalaalaya oo dhalaalaya ayaa ka baxa goobo dhibco ah, iyaga oo u gacan haadinaya neecawda caleenta sumurud ee qoto dheer ee geedaha miraha. Dahab, casaan, oranji, iyo ubaxyo cas ayaa indhaha soo jiida. Beeralayda oo ka kala socda 18 qoys ayaa ka shaqeeya dhulka, halka caruurtoodu ay ku ciyaaraan "King of the Jungle" iyagoo ku dul boodboodaya mulch iyo baaskiilka hareeraha dhulka.
Janssen Hang, agaasimaha fulinta iyo la-aasaasaha HAFA, ayaa ku tilmaamay beeralayda inay ka badan tahay xirfad - waa taabasho dhaqameed, hab nololeed. Waxaa iska kaashaday Hang, HAFA waxaa loo asaasay si ay wax uga qabato agab la'aanta ay haystaan beeralayda Hmong ee ku nool Magaalooyinka Mataanaha ah, kuwaas oo intooda badan ay noloshooda ku tiirsanaayeen tacbashada beeraha tan iyo markii ay dib u dajin ka heleen Minnesota.
"Tan iyo markii aan joogay beerta halkan, waxaan wax badan ka bartay dhaqankayga mar kale xagga beeraha - luqaddayda, odayaashayda, iyo sida ay u shaqeeyaan iyo sida ay u go'aansadeen," ayuu yidhi Dao Yang, maamulaha beeraha ee HAFA. “In meeshaan aan joogo ayaa beddeshay qaabka aan uga fikiro cuntada iyo bulshada. Cuntadu waa dawo, ma ogtahay? Cuntadu waa nolol.”
Video by Line Break Media.
Maanta, beeralayda Hmong waxay hogaamiyaan dhaqaalaha cunnada maxalliga ah ee Magaalooyinka Twin, oo ka kooban in ka badan 50% beeralayda ee in ka badan 70 suuqa beeralayda ah ee metro, kuwaas oo intooda badan ay caawiyaan dib u soo noolaynta ama bilaabista, si weyn u kordhinaya sahayda gobolka ee cuntada nafaqo leh, la awoodi karo. Hase yeeshee ururada sida HAFA ayaa weli ah kuwo lama huraan ah sababtoo ah sinnaan la'aanta nidaamka ee helitaanka agabka iyo maalgelinta beeralayda aan cadaanka ahayn. Tirakoobkii ugu dambeeyay ee USDA ayaa taas lagu ogaaday in ka yar 1% Beeralayda Minnesota waxay ahaayeen dad midab leh, inkastoo dadka midabka leh ay ka kooban yihiin 22% ee dadweynaha gobolka.
"Waa inaan taageernaa beeralayda, ma aha oo kaliya inay noqdaan wakiilka dhulka, mana aha oo kaliya dhinaca wax soo saarka cuntada, laakiin sidoo kale dhinaca dhaqaalaha," ayuu yidhi Hang. "Iyo dhinaca bulshada, dhaqanka, jinsiyadda, sidoo kale, sababtoo ah kuwani waa bulshooyin aan la daboolin."
"Markaan ka fikirno isbeddelka cimilada iyo beeraha, beeraha dib-u-cusbooneysiinta iyo agroecology waxay na siin karaan naqshad si aan uga gudubno yareynta qiiqa ama kaarboonka ciidda - waxay xoojiyaan adkeysiga bulshada, kor u qaadaan beeralayda taariikh ahaan la takooro, waxayna kor u qaadaan mas'uuliyiinta dhulka si ay u helaan booska saxda ah ee cimilada. madaxda.”
- MICHAEL ROBERTS, Aasaaska McKNIGHT
Xoojinta Beeralayda oo ah Hogaamiyaasha Cimilada
Barnaamijka Cimilada Midwest & Tamarta ee McKnight Foundation waxay la shuraakoobaan mas'uuliyiinta dhulka si ay u horumariyaan xalalka jaraya wasakhowga cimilada, kaarboonka sii daaya, iyo dhisida adkeysiga ciidda iyadoo ay sii kordhayaan khalkhalgelinta cimilada.
"Markaan ka fikirno isbeddelka cimilada iyo beeraha, beeraha dib-u-cusbooneysiinta iyo agroecology waxay na siin karaan naqshad si aan uga gudubno yareynta qiiqa ama kaarboonka ciidda - waxay xoojiyaan adkeysiga bulshada, kor u qaadaan beeralayda taariikh ahaan la takooro, waxayna kor u qaadaan mas'uuliyiinta dhulka si ay u helaan booska saxda ah ee cimilada. hoggaamiyeyaasha,” waxay wadaagaan Michael Roberts, oo ah sarkaalka sare ee barnaamijka ee barnaamijka Cimilada & Tamarta ee McKnight Foundation. "Iyadoo na tusaysa waxa suurtagal ah iyada oo loo marayo ku-talogal ula kac ah oo loo siman yahay, HAFA iyo beeralayda kale ee la-hawlgalayaasha ah ee ku nool Galbeedka Dhexe waxay u horseedayaan dhaqdhaqaaqa mustaqbal waara oo jiilalka soo socda, iyagoo sidoo kale buuxinaya talaajadoyadayada cunto macaan oo nafaqo leh."
Beeraley kastaa waxa uu leeyahay sheeko uu hadda uga sheekeeyo cimilo qallafsan, abaaro, dalaggii oo xumaaday, cayayaannada, iyo saamaynta kale ee qaaliga ah ee cimilodeenna isbeddelaysa, gaar ahaan kuwa isticmaala hab-dhaqameedyada caadiga ah ee beeraha. Iyada oo ay wajahayaan hanjabaadahaas, hababka dib-u-soo-nooleynta beeruhu waxay raadiyaan inay dib u soo celiyaan oo ay kor u qaadaan caafimaadka ciidda, biyaha, iyo nidaamka deegaanka iyagoo sidoo kale yareynaya qiiqa.
"Beeraha halkan ayaa muhiim u ah wax ka qabashada caddaaladda cimilada, oo ah dariiqa dhabta ah ee wax looga qabanayo caafimaadka ciidda, bacriminta ciidda, qulqulka biyaha, iyo sidoo kale kaarboonka kala-guurka," ayuu yidhi Yang. "Waxaan ku soo marnay wax ka bedel ballaaran oo ciidda halkan, oo lagu daray in ka badan 40 tan oo walxo organic ah. Sannad kasta waxaanu sii wadi doonaa qiimaynta wax soo saarka carradeena”.
Farsamooyinka sida wareegga dalagga, dalagga daboosha, beerashada la dhimay, iyo bacriminta waxay dhisaan walxaha organic ee ciidda, iyo kordhinta dalagyada joogtada ah waxay sii yaraynaysaa baahida loo qabo in la fasho oo la carqaladeeyo carrada. Si ka duwan beeraha caadiga ah, oo inta badan xaalufiya ciidda oo ku tiirsan agabka kiimikaad, hababka dib-u-soo-nooleynta waxay la shaqeeyaan dabeecadda waxayna soo saaraan aqoonta dhaqanka. Isku keenida cilmi-baarayaasha iyo beeralayda si siman oo wax-barasho ah ayaa fure u ah habka HAFA.
"Waa beer-cubator. Waa beer waxbarasho. Waa beer cilmi baadhiseed. Waxaadna u soo gashay macallin ahaan, laakiin sidoo kale waxaad u soo gashay arday ahaan,” ayuu la wadaagay Hang. Waxaa jira fursado badan oo aan si dhab ah u wadaagno aqoontayada midba midka kale, laga bilaabo dhaqamada soo jireenka ah ilaa kuwa hadda jira. "
Waxaa ka mid ah 160 dalagga oo lagu beeray HAFA noocyo badan oo soosaar ah oo udub dhexaad u ah cuntooyinka iyo caadooyinka Hmong, oo inta badan aan laga helin dukaamada maxalliga ah, kuwaas oo balaariyay xadhkaha dadka ee ku baahsan magaalooyinka Twin iyada oo loo marayo suuqyada beeralayda, beeraha taageera beesha (CSAs), dugsiyada, isbitaallada, iyo qaar kaloo badan. Sidan, caddaaladda cimiladu iyada oo loo marayo beeralayda sidoo kale waa dariiq loo maro caddaaladda cuntada iyo caafimaadka wanaagsan ee dhammaan.
Abuuritaanka Nidaam Cunno Cadaal ah oo Adag
“Cultural foods are very important for our farmers and their communities, and it’s very important for their diet,” says KaZoua Berry, director of The Food Group’s Beeraha Wabiga Weyn, kaas oo ka shaqeeya Degmooyinka Washington iyo Sherburne ee Minnesota. "Si beeralayda ay u sii wadaan inay horumariyaan beeralayda oo ay u helaan faa'iido ama awood ay ku sii wataan kobcinta cuntooyinkan, waxay u baahan yihiin inay fahmaan waxa aan dhammaanteen isku dayeyno inaan fahamno - saameynta cimilada."
Beeralayda Big River waxa ay siisaa agab, tababaro dhul ku salaysan, iyo taageero beeralayda Madow, Asaliga ah, iyo Dadka Midabka leh (BIPOC) iyaga oo gacan ka geysanaya nidaamka beeraha ee Minnesota oo adkeysi leh oo loo siman yahay. Beertu waxay dhawaan bilowday tijaabinta hal-abuurka, hababka beeraha ee cimilada-macaan sida agrivoltaics, isku darka baalal cadceedda iyo beeralayda si loo kordhiyo helitaanka dhulka iyo ka ilaalinta dalagyada kulaylka ba'an.
"Waxaa jira meel bannaan oo lagu beero cunto badan oo hoosteeda," Berry ayaa yidhi hal-abuurnimo abaal-marin. "Dad badan ayaa weli ku gaaloobay in ay shaqeyso."
The Isbahaysiga Beeraha ee Cusboonaysiinta waa shabakad ganacsi beeralay ah oo Midwest ah oo ku qotonta lammaane kale oo gaar ah oo beeralay ah: dhaqashada digaagga iyo geedaha hazelnut si wadajir ah loogu kaydiyo kaarboon iyo qoyaan badan oo ciidda, hagaajinta qaabkeeda iyo tayada. Beeraha Geed-Range, oo ay leedahay oo ay maamusho Reginaaldo Haslett-Maroquin, waa model ee nidaamka Isbahaysiga ee gobolka kaas oo sidoo kale siinaya barta gelitaanka warshadaha ee bilowga iyo beeralayda BIPOC ee Minnesota, Wisconsin, iyo Iowa.
Si ay si wax ku ool ah ugu dhaqmaan dib-u-soo-nooleynta beeraha, beeralayda waxay u baahan yihiin la awoodi karo, helitaan waqti dheer dhulka ah-wax beeralayda BIPOC si nidaamsan looga saaray iyo kooxaha sida Beeraleyda Midwest ee Midabka Wadajirka ah waxay ka shaqaynayaan sidii ay u hagaajin lahaayeen. 2022, kaliya 36% ee beeralayda madow Ameerika waxay heshay USDA dayn toos ah oo dhul gadashada ah iyo kharashyo kale, marka la barbar dhigo 72% ee beeralayda cadaanka ah.
"Heshisyada muddada-dheer waxay siinayaan beeralayda fursado ay ku koraan sannadaha badan," Berry ayaa yidhi. “Waxay ku maalgashan karaan meelahan, waxayna haystaan ammaanka dhulka. Waxaa jira beeraley badan oo kireeya dhul halkaas oo ay hoos yimaadaan heshiiska kirada sannad-ka sano ah. Siday rabaan uma soo celin karaan ciidda sababtoo ah waxay u baahan tahay lacag, waqti iyo maalgashi badan.
"Heshisyada muddada-dheer waxay siinayaan beeralayda fursado ay ku koraan sannadaha badan. Waxay maalgashi karaan meelahaas, waxayna haystaan ammaanka dhulka."
- KaZoua Berry, Big River Farms
Dhisidda Hantida Guud
Deyrtii 2020, HAFA waxay si guul leh ula shaqeysay xulafada Xarunta Gobolka si ay u hesho $2 milyan iyada oo loo marayo biilka isku xidhka si ay uga caawiso ururka iibsashada dhulka, waxayna sameeyeen taariikh markii ay wuxuu soo gabagabeeyay iibka 2022. Waxay ahayd tillaabo wax ka beddeshay hab-raacii beeralayda HAFA ee awooddii ay ugu dhaqmi lahaayeen dhaqamada dib-u-soo-noolaynta iyo dhisidda hantida faca.
"Waxay ahayd maalin qiimo leh markii aan iibsanay beerta, taasoo naga dhigaysa mid ka mid ah kuwa aan faa'iido doonka ahayn, ururada Hmong ay hogaamiso ee shaqadan," ayuu yidhi Yang.
"Waxaan dareemayaa lahaanshaha badan," ayay tiri May, oo xubin ka ah beeralayda HAFA. "HaFA iyo amniga dhulka la'aanteed, weligay ma malaynayn inaan beeran lahaa 500 oo geed oo miro ah. Markaa waxay ii tahay maalgashi wakhti dheer ah. Aad ayaan ugu faraxsanahay in carruurtaydu ay maalin la wareegaan, iyaga oo ka dhisaya hanti jiil halkan beerta HAFA."
Sida laga soo xigtay ugu dambeeyay Tirakoobka Beeraha, da'da celceliska beeralayda ee Maraykanka waa 58 sano iyo kor u kaca, beeruhuna waxay sii wadaan inay kordhiyaan xajmiga iyo hoos u dhaca tirada. U shaqee sida HAFA si ay u kobciyaan taageerada beeralayda yar yar oo ay u abuuraan qaab-dhismeedyo ay dhalinyaradu dib ugu riixayaan isbeddelladaas.
"Waxaan ku rajo weynahay in jiilka soo socda ay ku hawlan yihiin oo ay ku dhaqmaan dhaqamadan beeralayda ah, si ay naftooda ugu hormariyaan hawlgalinta iyo dhisidda hawlgal beereed waara," waxay la wadaagtaa Judy Yang, oo xubin ka ah HAFA oo beeraley nolosheeda oo dhan, tan iyo markii ay ku soo kortay Laos Wiilkeeda Danny ayaa ku jawaabay, "Waalidiintay, waxay ii gudbinayaan aqoonta ay u leeyihiin beerashada, si aan ugu gudbiyo jiilka xiga."
Qoysaskan beeralayda ah waxay rabaan waxa qoys walba doonayo, mustaqbal ifaya ubadkooda, waxayna korayaan mustaqbal caawin doona dadka iyo meeraha.
"Beeraha dib-u-soo-nooleynta maaha kaliya badbaadada," Berry ayaa yidhi. "Waxay ku saabsan tahay dhismaha nidaamyada ay carruurteena iyo carruurtoodu ay sii wadi karaan inay ka faa'iidaystaan."